Protected by the River Tagus and imbued with art by El Greco and Cervantes, Toledo has an incalculable artistic value as a result of the inheritance that different cultures and eras have left behind in its streets and monuments. Few cities in the world can boast to have conserved a mosque, a synagogue and a lavish cathedral built between the 10th and the 13th Centuries, as well as such impressive buildings as the Alcazar and its Roman bridge.
Today we travel to the very heart of Spain, to the city of the three cultures, to continue our journey round the World Heritage Cities designated in Spain.
Toledo and UNESCO
The cultural value of Toledo at a national level was first recognised in 1940, when it was declared an historical centre as an historical-artistic site, and nowadays it maintains its status as an asset of cultural interest.
Its international promotion comes from UNESCO and its designation as a World Heritage Site on 26 November 1986, as the representation of a master work of mankind’s creative genius, as a manifestation of an extensive exchange of human values, bearing unique witness to the civilisations that inhabited the city and as an architectural and scenic example of significant eras of mankind.
As expressed by the international body, “Toledo is the depositary of more than 2,000 years of history. Its master works are the product of heterogeneous civilisations in an environment where the existence of three great religions – Judaism, Christianity and Islam – was a decisive factor”.
A fundamental historical enclave
One of the crowns from the Guarrazar Treasure, from the Visigothic period, discovered near Toledo and currently in the MAN in Madrid. EFE/Ismael Herrero
Although the roots of Toledo can be traced back to the Neolithic period, its entry in the history books took place in the year 192 BC, when the Roman legions conquered it and founded Toletum. With the fall of Roman Hispania and the Germanic invasions, the city was occupied by the Visigoths, who made it their capital, extending their kingdom throughout the Peninsula.
The Muslim conquest took place at the beginning of the 8th Century. Toledo thus came under the control of the powerful Caliphate of Cordoba and, following its fall, became a small independent kingdom – a taifa [Muslim-ruled independent principality]. The arrival of the troops of Alfonso VI in 1085 brought the Arab reign of the city to an end.
Toledo thus became the centre of the court and the capital of the Castilian monarchy, and began a period of philosophical, theological and scientific renaissance on the Peninsula. The tolerance of the Christian monarchs to Muslims and Jews facilitated a climate of cultural exchange which, among other things, gave rise to the School of Translators of Toledo – a movement involving the translation and interpretation of classical Greek and Roman texts that boosted the consolidation of the Castilian Spanish language. Thanks to the textile, weapons, silk, coin and craft industries, Toledo enjoyed its golden era in the 16th Century. During this boom period, El Greco – the universal painter – produced his finest paintings, some of which are still conserved in the city today.
After a period of decline, its economic recovery and popularity returned in the 19th Century. Travellers, novelists and poets from all around the world flocked to Toledo, attracted by its romantic image. Nowadays, the capital of Castile-La Mancha is a dynamic and growing city, with an attractive cultural, tourist and gastronomical offer, where tradition and innovation go hand in hand.
The jewels of Toledo
The fascinating history of the city is today reflected in a huge variety of styles: Arabic, Mudejar, Gothic and Renaissance, along with Roman and Visigoth remains. An impressive historical case study that can be viewed as a whole from the Mirador del Valle – the best-known panoramic vantage point of the city of Toledo, bordered by the River Tagus and its ancient city walls.
An image of the city in which one building particularly stands out - the Alcazar. Located on Toledo’s highest hill, the remains of former structures show that this was always a fortified location, from the Roman Governor to the defence of the Muslim citadel. The current structure was built on the orders of Emperor Carlos V, to which end the former castle was almost completely pulled down. Each of its walls conserves remnants of each of the phases of the Spanish Renaissance. Gaol, military barracks and workshop – almost completely destroyed in the Spanish Civil War – today host the Military Museum.
View of the Alcántara Bridge, of Roman origin, and the Alcázar of Toledo in the background.
To get to the city, the traveller has the chance to cross the River Tagus over one of its historical bridges. The oldest is the Alcántara Bridge – of Roman origin, rebuilt in the 10th Century; and San Martín Bridge, the origin of which dates back to the 14th Century. But before going into the old town, the visitor will come across its city walls and the impressive gates that lead into the city. Particularly noteworthy is the Bisagra Gate – of Muslim origin, rebuilt during the resigns of Carlos V and Felipe II. The outside is made up of a triumphal arch crowned by the imperial shield of the city and flanked by two impressive turrets. The Sol Gate and the Cambrón Gate are also well preserved.
Interior of the Primate Cathedral of Toledo. Photo: clm24.es
Once inside the city, you must not miss the Primada Cathedral of Toledo. Works commenced in 1226, under the reign of Fernando III el Santo, which would then take another two centuries to be completed. In a Gothic style, particularly noteworthy are the main sacristy - presided over by the work by El Greco, El Expolio - the Reliquary Treasure of the Arfe Custody – another of the symbols of Toledo – the chapter hall, the choir and the main chapel. The cathedral has 22 chapels and a number of other rooms, as well as a wealth of works of art by artists from each era.
Aside from the cathedral, there are many other churches and monasteries, both in the Mudejar, Renaissance and Baroque styles. Particularly outstanding is Santo Tomé Church, founded after the Christian conquest on the site of a former mosque, which is particularly famous as it houses the panting El entierro del Conde de Orgaz – one of the masterpieces by El Greco. In turn, San Román Church is the epitome of the first Mudejar art of Toledo, dating back to the 8th Century, which today houses the Museum of the Visigoth Councils and Culture. And we must not forget Santa Clara la Real Monastery, a 14th Century convent, made up of two of the oldest and most complete Mudejar palaces in Toledo.
Roof of the Cristo de la Luz Mosque. Photo: turismo.toledo.es
The mark of the Muslim culture can be clearly seen in the Cristo de la Luz Mosque – one of the most important monuments of Hispano-Muslim and Mudejar architecture in Spain, which dates back to the year 999. This small building is a unique example of the preservation of the art of Al-Ándalus which, subsequently, as is the case of the Great Mosque of Cordoba, would become a church, with the addition of Christian elements.
Also noteworthy from the Caliphate era is the Casa del Temple – an example of civil architecture from the 10th to 14th Centuries, which conserves the best plinths of Caliphate paintings in Spain and the oldest wooden structures on the Iberian Peninsula. Built as a Hispano-Muslim palace, it was donated by Alfonso VIII to the Order of the Knights Templar.
Interior of the Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca. Photo: leyendasdetoledo.com
For its part, the Santa María la Blanca and Samuel ha-Leví synagogues bear witness to the Hebrew culture in Toledo. The first was built in 1180 and reconverted to the Christian culture in 1405 – a time that the three chapels of the chancery and the altarpieces of Berruguete and Juan de Borgoña date back to. There are noteworthy artistic capitals, decorated with stucco pinecones and volutes, which contrast with the white walls. This is considered to be the finest example of Almohad art in Spain. The latter, also known as the Tránsito Synagogue, dates back to the 14th Century and is in the Mudejar style. This is considered to be the prettiest and best conserved mediaeval synagogue in the world, which nowadays is home to the Sephardic Museum.
As well as its monuments, the meeting point for local residents and visitors to the city of Toledo is Zocodover Square, a name which comes from Arabic and means “the marketplace of beasts of burden”. This square, like other main squares in Spain, has hosted bullfights and was used for executions during the Inquisition, and is today full of coffee shops, restaurants and shops.